Deb Perelman

Mandu are the dumplings in Korean cuisine, either boiled in water and served in soups (this variety often has their dough corners pulled together) or fried on one side like potstickers and then dipped in sauce.

Recipes for spicy lentil samosas, spinach and ricotta agnolotti and beef-tofu mandu.

 

 

 

"Even if I know exactly what's inside, tearing open the packaging is always half the fun."

 

 

 

About the Author

Deb Perelman writes about food, technology and the daily grind in New York City. Her cooking blog, Smitten Kitchen, was the recipient of a 2006 Food Blog Award in the Humor category.

 

 

NPR.org, November 6, 2007 · I am a dumpling fanatic. I have yet to find a piece of dropped or stuffed dough beyond the reaches of my adoration.

Whether fried or boiled, baked in the oven or submerged in broth, steamed in bamboo or coasting over a thin puddle of sauce, breaking my fork, spoon or chopstick into a not-yet-unveiled center summons in me the excitement of a pile of brightly wrapped birthday presents. Even if I know exactly what's inside, tearing open the packaging is always half the fun.

When you love dumplings, the entire world steps out to welcome you into its home, setting out platters of spicy empanadas flecked with raisins and hard-boiled eggs throughout South America; brothy bowls of thin and slippery wantons in China; tiny, artful tortellini draped lightly in sauce in Italy, and spicy, petite manti in ayran, a yogurt sauce in Turkey. Really, we're just getting started, so you probably want to sit down and stay for a while.

There are but four features that, to me, define a dumpling, be they called ravioli or pirozhki: A filling--meat, cheese, vegetable or some combination thereof, almost always minced; a wrap, with its varied yet specific folds, crimps, tucks and turns; a preparation--boiled, steamed, pan- or deep-fried, and a presentation-- in a broth, dipped in sauce or mounded with butter-fried onions.

Of course, trying to abbreviate a whole world of pocketed delights into four parts leaves a few things out. Gnocchi, matzo balls and Kentucky chicken 'n dumplin' soup pout at me for omitting some dumpling history.

In the beginning, dumplings weren't filled at all. They were lumps of grain or cereal dough dropped into soups and stews. They evolved into the folded and sealed varieties I have fallen so hard for.

Other dumplings defy strict classification. So Chinese xiaolongbao (soup-filled dumplings), Russian golubtzi (stuffed cabbage) and German kartoffelkloesse (potato dumplings with a small crouton in the middle) stare angrily at me from the corner, tasty hands on delicious hips.

Fear not, I have room in my belly for all of you.

There are two dumpling camps: Those who have made them from scratch their whole lives find it incredibly simple and think it's ludicrous to use packaged dumpling skins or pre-sheeted pasta, and those who have tried to make them for dinner one night and realized they misjudged the prep time by several few hours.

Because most dumplings have four features--a wrapper, filling, preparation and a presentation--they also have four sets of instructions, or enough reason for anyone to dream of cutting corners and buying the first step at the store.

But if you do choose to make your dough at home (and I will not judge you if you do not), you'll realize that there is something homey and simple about most recipes: typically just flour, water and something to enrich the dough stirred in a bowl and kneaded until someone's grandmother says you're done. It's not a quick process, but it can be a relaxing one.

From there, the fillings, cooking and sauces or garnishes come together quickly, as if rewarding you for your elbow grease.

The most important thing to know if you're going to cook dumplings at home is how to flash freeze them, since they so often yield dozens when you only need 10.

Arrange your uncooked confections on a parchment-lined tray, being certain that none are touching, and freeze them through before putting them in a freezer bag. This will not only save you a tremendous amount of freezer space, but you'll find that uncooked dumplings keep surprisingly well frozen, for at least a month, so they'll always be fresh when you want them.

In my kitchen, that's pretty much daily.

1 tsp Szechuan peppercorns

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 tsp Maldon sea salt

5 heaped tbsp cornflour

Groundnut oil, for deep-frying

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For the Sweet Chilli Sauce

4 tbsp caster sugar

3 garlic cloves, peeled

3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped

Small handful of coriander leaves

2-3 long red chillies (according to taste), deseeded and roughly chopped

Juice of 1 large lime

1 tbsp fish sauce

1 tbsp light soy sauce

1 Cut the tentacles off the squid and set aside. Open out the squid tubes and lightly score with a crisscross pattern. Pat dry with kitchen paper, wrap in clingfilm and chill until ready to cook.

2 In a dry pan, lightly toast the Szechuan peppercorns, black peppercorns and sea salt until fragrant, then coarsely grind the mixture using a pestle and mortar. Combine half the spice mix with the cornflour and set aside.

3 For the sweet chilli sauce, place the sugar in a small, heavy-based saucepan with 3-4 tablespoons of water. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil for 5-8 minutes until reduced and thickened.

4 In the meantime, place the garlic, ginger, coriander leaves, chillies and lime juice in a food processor and whiz to a coarse paste. When the sugar syrup has reached a light golden caramel colour, carefully add the spice paste, standing well back as the caramel will sputter and spit. Stir in the fish and soy sauces. Return to the boil and immediately take the pan off the heat. Leave to cool completely before spooning into small, individual dipping bowls.

5 Remove the squid from the fridge. Heat a wok with 5cm of groundnut oil until a piece of bread dropped into the oil sizzles vigorously. (If you are using a deep-fryer, the temperature should reach 180C.) Working in batches, coat the squid with the peppercorn and cornflour mixture, shake off the excess and add to the oil. Deep-fry until lightly golden and crisp, making sure not to overcrowd the wok. Drain on kitchen paper and repeat with the rest of the squid.

6 Sprinkle lightly with the reserved pepper mixture, if you wish, and garnish with the coriander leaves. Serve immediately, with the individual bowls of sweet chilli dipping sauce on the side.

Makes 2 servings

Ingredients

note: You may substitute the Coconut Milk Concentrate with canned Coconut Milk and the Dry Chili with Fresh Chilies.
The Dry Chili seems to add more of a roasted nutty flavor.

Panang Curry (sometimes written Penang Curry) is a dry curry which is fried in coconut milk, and not boiled. Panang uses the thicker part of the milk, or the cream only. It's typically made with beef, although you can make it with pork or chicken as well. It is usually just meat, and is seasoned with sliced lime leaves and sometimes a few leaves of Thai basil.

Directions

1. The first step is to make the curry paste. Start by soaking the chilies in water until they're soft. This could take up to a half hour. When they're soft, cut them open to remove the guts & seeds.
2. Toast the cumin seeds, cilantro seeds and peanuts separately in a pan over medium heat. Roast each until fragrant, about 3-5 minutes.
3. Grind up the seeds together in a stone mortar & pestle until powdered. Remove and set aside.
4. Add your chilies with the salt to the stone mortar & pestle and pound until a paste. This will take awhile -- the skins are difficult to mash. Be patient.
5. When your chilies are a uniform paste, add the lemongrass. Pound until a paste. Then add the galangal and coriander roots, and again, smash until paste.
6. Add the peanuts, shallots, garlic and your powdered cumin & cilantro seeds. Mash until paste. Add the shrimp paste and pound to mix well. Set aside.
7. Now, on to frying your curry! Heat up your pan first on medium-high heat, then add 1/2 cup of the coconut cream. It should sizzle right away and boil. Add all the paste and mix well.
8. Cut your meat cross-grain into thin slices (about 1.5″ (4cm) long x 1/2″ (1.25cm) tall x 1/8″ (.25cm) thick).
9. Fry the paste. You want to keep the paste dry, but not too dry that it sticks and burns. Keep adding a little bit of coconut milk when it gets too dry, maybe about 1/4 cup every minute or two. Keep stirring so it doesn't burn.
10. Keep adding coconut cream about 1/4 cup at a time, every minute or two. You should start to see a lot of oil coming to the top of the curry. This is normal and a sign that you're doing it right!
11. Your paste should start to smell really good after 4-5 minutes. You'll start to see a lot of oil rising to the top, especially where it's bubbling. When it does, add your meat.
12. Cook the meat until cooked, add the lime leaves and palm sugar, then keep going about 3-5 minutes so the meat is soft. The consistency of the curry should be similar to the photo. If it's too dry, add a bit more of the coconut milk. Remove and serve.
13. Feel free to garnish with shredded lime leaves and a few leaves of Thai basil. Some fancy restaurants serve it like shown with a bit of thickened coconut cream (thickened with a bit of tapioca flour) which you're welcome to do too!